Saturday, September 24, 2011

Still Searchin'

I had a great surf on a dark and drizzly Thursday morning just a few days ago, and it really took me back to the "reason" why I still go surfing. The waves were only 2ft at best, but it was super glassy and the slow rollers were still breaking on the outside when I first gave it a check. As I shuffled back to the car for my 10ft log and 4/3 fullsuit I thought to myself, "I'm so glad I got up early this morning". There was some serious lulls between the sets, but there were also a few shapely little walls to be had when the sets did bounce through, and I was dialed in with the early entry longboard routine. I still get such a kick out of sliding into waves and I hope that feeling never goes away.

Keeping that stoke of surfing on the forefront of my mind is not a hard thing to do. As a collector of all things surf and water sports related, I am constantly reminded of why I like to surf and I've got that ever present inspiration in the form of sweet little vintage finds. I love riding old school boards, they're just cooler. In my search for those old boards I also come across other surf related items and I wanted to share some of those finds on Vintage-Surf-N-Stuff.



While I was out searchin' today, I happened to recognize this fella who was inspecting a small pile of older boards that I had just been looking at a few moments earlier. I did a few double takes, and then calmly gained the courage to ask the dude, "Has anybody ever told you that you look like Peter Townsend ?", and he says "Ya, that's because I am Peter Townsend". It was a really cool experience. Of course I know that the guy is an absolute surfing legend, and I wasn't going to ask him for a picture or any jive like that...but to have a friendly exchange with a World Champion Surfer, a guy who I've watched and listened to over and over again in classic surfing films and as a surfing commentator. Wow what a neat moment for me! I shook his hand, and laughed at his own stoke of searching and finding vintage boards. He mentioned finding a PLASTIC FANTASTIC for his son a while back and only paying $50 for it, and of course I could share in his joy. It was so cool to see him out there still searchin' for vintage boards, and I was so impressed with how down to earth and engaging he was...PT is the man!

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